Some basic tips

If you are going to a store then you must know exactly what kind of memory you need.

1. Make a note of how many DIMM slots your computer has.

2. Pull out one of your chips (or all) and bring them with you.  If you don’t have an antistatic bag then use a paper envelope to carry them and don’t touch the metal parts if you can avoid it.

3. Know what type you need. You are looking for a number like PC3200 or PC2-3200 (Note that these are different).  Whatever you buy must have these same numbers.

4. Know what size you need. The size of the chip is also indicated.  It will be like 128M, 256M, 512M, 1G, 2G.
In case you didn’t know 1024M = 1G.
If you are bothering to do this, your total memory should be at least 2G.

How to replace a DIMM (memory chip)

1. Your computer should be OFF but plugged in (for grounding).

2. Make sure you don’t have a static spark on you.  (Touch a metal portion of outside of the computer)

3. Open the computer and find the DIMM chips.  To remove (1) pull the tabs apart and (2) pull the chip straight up.

4. To install a chip, spread the tabs and line up the chip.  Make sure the notch lines up with the slot (you may have it reversed or it may be the wrong type if they don’t line up).   Then put firm pressure on the top edge with both of your thumbs.  You should hear it ‘click’ into place.  Make sure the tabs are back in place in the up position.

(Note: Most new computers work best when chips are installed in pairs.  Eg if you have 4 slots then fill the 2 that are similar colors first.  Also fill them with the same size chips.)

The rules:

Know how many slots you have and what type of chips they take.  (The crucial tool is good for showing that).  But the best way obviously is to open up the machine and look.

These are the current types:  (see list at  bottom)
SDR (ancient machine – don’t bother upgrade)
DDR (more than a few years old – may be worth the upgrade)
DDR2 (recent machines)
DDR3 (new machines)

Within the type you can generally use the higher numbered models as they are faster and backwards compatible.  Also the number of pins and the notch position will physically prevent you from plugging in the wrong type of memory (for the most part).

Most DDR2 and DDR3 chips should be installed in pairs (or trios) to get the best performance – the tools or manufacturer should tell you that.

Finally, how much to add.  Well that is a big topic but Windows 32 bit machines can really only use about 3.5G (4G minus the memory on your video card).  That is why there is a silent switch to Windows 64 bit in the higher end market and it will become mainstream soon.  With 64 bit the limit is 128G or something crazy high like that (crazy for the moment).

Some common systems and what type of memory they have

DDR SDRAM

Dell Dimension 4500S (2 slots) PC2700, PC3200

DDR2 SDRAM

Dell Dimension 9200c or XPS210 (4 slots paired) PC2-5300
Dell OptiPlex 330 (2 slots paired) PC2-5300, PC2-6400, PC2-8500
Dell OptiPlex 360 (2 slots paired) PC2-6400, PC2-8500

Tools

Dell (web)

Tool to scan system and order memory and other parts: Tells you what slots have what chips

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/DellPartsFamily.aspx?c=us&cs=04&l=en&s=bsd&~ck=anavml

Crucial (web)
http://www.crucial.com/systemscanner/index.aspx

CPU-Z (app)
http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

General Information

FAQ

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/55024-30-memory-please-read-posting

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimm

Images

http://memoryguide.org/pmwiki.php?n=RAM.DDR

SDR SDRAM (168 pin 2 notches)

DDR SDRAM (184 pin)

DDR2 SDRAM (240 pin)

DDR3 SDRAM (240 pin)

Speeds

For various technologies, there are certain bus and device clock frequencies that are standardized. There is also a decided nomenclature for each of these speeds for each type.

SDR SDRAM DIMMs - These first synchronous registered DRAM DIMMs had the same bus frequency for data, address and control lines.

144 or 168 pin (two notches)

• PC66 = 66 MHz
• PC100 = 100 MHz
• PC133 = 133 MHz

DDR SDRAM (DDR1) SDRAM DIMMs - DIMMs based on Double Data Rate (DDR) DRAM have data but not the strobe at double the rate of the clock. This is achieved by clocking on both the rising and falling edge of the data strobes.

184 pin (single notch)

• PC1600 = 200 MHz data & strobe / 100 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2100 = 266 MHz data & strobe / 133 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2700 = 333 MHz data & strobe / 166 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3200 = 400 MHz data & strobe / 200 MHz clock for address and control

DDR2 SDRAM SDRAM DIMMs - DIMMs based on Double Data Rate 2 (DDR2) DRAM also have data and data strobe frequencies at double the rate of the clock. This is achieved by clocking on both the rising and falling edge of the data strobes. The power consumption and voltage of DDR2 is significantly lower than DDR(1) at the same speed.

200 or 240 pin (single notch)

• PC2-3200 = 400 MHz data & strobe / 200 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-4200 = 533 MHz data & strobe / 266 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-5300 = 667 MHz data & strobe / 333 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-6400 = 800 MHz data & strobe / 400 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-8000 = 1000 MHz data & strobe / 500 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-8500 = 1066 MHz data & strobe / 533 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-9600 = 1200 MHz data & strobe / 600 MHz clock for address and control

DDR3 SDRAM SDRAM DIMMs - DIMMs based on Double Data Rate 3(DDR3) DRAM have data and strobe frequencies at double the rate of the clock. This is achieved by clocking on both the rising and falling edge of the data strobes. The power consumption and voltage of DDR3 is lower than DDR2 of the same speed.

240 pin (single notch)

• PC3-6400 = 800 MHz data & strobe / 400 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3-8500 = 1066 MHz data & strobe / 533 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3-10600 = 1333 MHz data & strobe / 667 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3-12800 = 1600 MHz data & strobe / 800 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3 16000 = 2000 MHz data & strobe / 1000 MHz clock for address and control

 Golden rule of Netiquette: don't make people do work for you that you can do yourself.

The rules haven't really changed but the technology we're using sometimes allows us to break them easier and quicker than ever before.  So here's our growing list of the common things you should look out for when trying to be a good corporate netizen.  Any suggestions?

1. The subject line is there for a reason. It should never be left blank. It should never say something useless like "Email".
2. If you wish to e-mail somebody don't find any old email from that person in your inbox and press 'reply' unless you are willing to erase all the original text and subject.
3. Don’t hit send. Email has the potential to be the most permanent record of communication ever created. In the future, our digital records may be our legacy. Remember that when you are chewing someone out or forwarding some great internet link to questionable content.
4. Learn how to add a standard signature. Include your phone number, your address. If you can make the font small - do so. Do not include a paragraph of disclaimers or useless information if you can avoid it. Get a backbone. Don't cya with each and every message you send.
5. Don't ask somebody to call you without giving the phone number to call.
6. Know how big your e-mail message is. Watch those attachments. Anything over 1MB is rude. Anything over 5MB is an IT problem for your company and your recipient's company.
7. If you are replying to something include the original text beneath yours. Not doing so places a burden on the other side and assumes everyone considers you the most important and memorable person in their world.
8. Don't press Enter except after a paragraph. If you break up a line using Enter according to your screen size you are assuming the world doesn't have blackberries, treos, or even computers with screens different than yours.
9. Don't include those > marks on each line of the original text. After 2 replies it becomes an illegible mess. By breaking up the lines iIt also assumes your screen width is equal to your recipients screen width.
10. Never EVER reply-to-all. reply to the people that care. oh yeah nobody cares.
11. Don't be sneaky with bcc. For one thing if you send to some unsavvy emailer they may reply-to-all and blow your cover so be prepared to wipe egg off face. For another its cowardly and unsportsmanlike conduct.
12. Sending a msg to lots of people. Here's a case where you must use bcc. It's not polite to 'publish' a large number of people's addresses to a lot of people that might not know each other. The bcc hides the addresses so it solves the problem but causes another one: now nobody knows who else the email went to so it's up to you as the sender to include in the body of the message right at the top "to: all 5th grade parents" or some such.
13. Mass mailings. You may send safely to at most 50 people. Beyond that you are treading into the waters of spammers and there are serious risks. A big one has to do with community based spam filtering. If enough people hit the 'this is spam' button then your mail serever may be blacklisted to anyone subscribing to that filter. This means you have just prevented ANY future email from getting to ANY subscriber of that list from ANYONE at your company and even OTHER companies if they share your mail server.
14. Making it pretty. Email was conceived as a text based medium. It works well that way: it keeps the size down and allows for all kinds of cell phones and other devices that can't handle more than text. When you fancify and embed pictures you are taking a chance: blackberries and such may take your picture out and treat it as an attachment and formatting is ignored for the most part.