Here's how you can use the ID info from PCI devices to figure out the model of the card.  From this info you can search and find drivers.

Start Device manager (Control Panel… System… Device Manager) and look for those yellow question marks.

Look at the properties... Details... Hardware Ids  and you will see vendor and device codes like this:

Do you see …VEN_10EC&DEV_8169&…

So the Vendor ID is 10EC (the company that made the device)
the Device ID is 8169 (the code for the device)

Now go here to look up these numbers:

PCI Vendor and Device Lists

http://www.pcidatabase.com/

In this case I entered the device ID and had to guess that I really needed the Netgear vendor since realtek simply makes the chip on the card.

In reality, either vendor probably has good enough drivers.  Now you can go get the right drivers!

DriverMax

If all the above sounds too hard or you do this type of thing ALOT (we do) then you should definitely check out DriverMax from Innovative Solutions.  It automatically detects your missing hardware and even offers to download the correct drivers. 

What’s more it will let you know if your drivers are out of date and will keep track of your system on-line.

It’s very easy to connect the wires – the hard part is concealing it and making it look ‘pretty’.

This guy goes through (a bit too much) detail about the installation but at least he’s thorough and the pics are good.

http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/01/19/how-to-install-an-ethernet-jack-for-a-home-network/

and this guy does the same

http://www.howsed.com/installing-an-ethernet-outlet/

Here’s my own version

(I've plagiarized the pics from these guys- sorry guys!)

Here’s the setup you will end up with

Computer <---- 7’ cable ---> Cat5eJack <---- 100’ cable ---> Cat5eJack <---- 7’ cable ---> Router or Switch

You are building this portion : Cat5eJack <---- 100’ cable ---> Cat5eJack

Basically you need to buy a spool of Ethernet cable.  They are all the same but look for 8 strand Cat5e cable (at least).  You could even buy a 100’ pre-made cable and cut off the ends but that would defeat the whole purpose I guess.

I would buy at Home Depot or Lowes.  Or Radio Shack if you don’t mind a bit of a rip off.

Here’s your shopping list:

- 100’ Ethernet cable of type Cat5e or Cat6 (or whatever length you want)

- 2 punch down Ethernet jacks (female)

- 2 surface mount boxes (optional)

- 2 7’ pre-built Ethernet cables (male to male) . These are the standard network cables you probably already have.

Here are what the jacks look like.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102539#inTheBox

You don’t need any tools besides a wire cutter because these jacks include a ‘punch-down tool’ (see the grey thing in the picture).

These jacks were designed to ‘snap in’ to a housing like a surface mount box (easiest) or a flush mount box if you feel like making it look like a professional install like an electrical outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-QuickPort-Surface-mount-white/dp/B000LDJEPI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1262538893&sr=8-2-catcorr

This is all cosmetics so it’s optional.  Here’s a two port version.  You will only be using one port per box.

After you run the wire you have to cut the wire and strip the outer white (or blue) jacket only.  You can almost pull it off by hand.  Do NOT strip the 8 wires inside the jacket.

Strip off about 6 inches or so and un-twist all the wires.  Then line up each color to the corresponding colors on the jack.  Note that the jack has A and B color standards.  Use the B section although as long as you use the same standard on both sides you will be fine.  Use the punch down tool to push the wires into the slots.   The slots are designed so that it strips the jacket when the wire is pushed in.

The 8 colors are blue, blue with stripe, green, green with stripe, brown, …. You get the picture.

Also, the outer jacket should go right up to the jack so that no color wires are exposed unnecessarily.  This prevents signal loss.

Then you just snip off the ends of the wires.  You could re-punch everything to make sure it’s tight.

Snap it in the surface mount box and you are done!

Now attach your computer to one end using a standard Ethernet cable.

On the other end use another Ethernet cable to connect to the switch or router.

Hopefully you will see a connection pop up on your computer.    If not you will have to re-terminate both ends!

The rules:

Know how many slots you have and what type of chips they take.  (The crucial tool is good for showing that)

These are the current types:  (see list at  bottom)
SDR (ancient machine – don’t bother upgrade)
DDR (more than a few years old – may be worth the upgrade)
DDR2 (recent machines)
DDR3 (new machines)

Within the type you can generally use the higher numbered models as they are faster and backwards compatible.  Also the number of pins and the notch position will physically prevent you from plugging in the wrong type of memory (for the most part).

Most DDR2 and DDR3 chips should be installed in pairs (or trios) to get the best performance – the tools or manufacturer should tell you that.

Finally, how much to add.  Well that is a big topic but Windows 32 bit machines can really only use about 3.5G (4G minus the memory on your video card).  That is why there is a silent switch to Windows 64 bit in the higher end market and it will become mainstream soon.  With 64 bit the limit is 128G or something crazy high like that (crazy for the moment).

Some common systems and what type of memory they have

DDR SDRAM

Dell Dimension 4500S (2 slots) PC2700, PC3200

DDR2 SDRAM

Dell Dimension 9200c or XPS210 (4 slots paired) PC2-5300
Dell OptiPlex 330 (2 slots paired) PC2-5300, PC2-6400, PC2-8500
Dell OptiPlex 360 (2 slots paired) PC2-6400, PC2-8500

Tools

Dell (web)

Tool to scan system and order memory and other parts: Tells you what slots have what chips

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/DellPartsFamily.aspx?c=us&cs=04&l=en&s=bsd&~ck=anavml

Crucial (web)
http://www.crucial.com/systemscanner/index.aspx

CPU-Z (app)
http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

General Information

FAQ

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/55024-30-memory-please-read-posting

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimm

Images

http://memoryguide.org/pmwiki.php?n=RAM.DDR

SDR SDRAM (168 pin 2 notches)

DDR SDRAM (184 pin)

DDR2 SDRAM (240 pin)

DDR3 SDRAM (240 pin)

Speeds

For various technologies, there are certain bus and device clock frequencies that are standardized. There is also a decided nomenclature for each of these speeds for each type.

SDR SDRAM DIMMs - These first synchronous registered DRAM DIMMs had the same bus frequency for data, address and control lines.

144 or 168 pin (two notches)

• PC66 = 66 MHz
• PC100 = 100 MHz
• PC133 = 133 MHz

DDR SDRAM (DDR1) SDRAM DIMMs - DIMMs based on Double Data Rate (DDR) DRAM have data but not the strobe at double the rate of the clock. This is achieved by clocking on both the rising and falling edge of the data strobes.

184 pin (single notch)

• PC1600 = 200 MHz data & strobe / 100 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2100 = 266 MHz data & strobe / 133 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2700 = 333 MHz data & strobe / 166 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3200 = 400 MHz data & strobe / 200 MHz clock for address and control

DDR2 SDRAM SDRAM DIMMs - DIMMs based on Double Data Rate 2 (DDR2) DRAM also have data and data strobe frequencies at double the rate of the clock. This is achieved by clocking on both the rising and falling edge of the data strobes. The power consumption and voltage of DDR2 is significantly lower than DDR(1) at the same speed.

200 or 240 pin (s
ingle notch)

• PC2-3200 = 400 MHz data & strobe / 200 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-4200 = 533 MHz data & strobe / 266 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-5300 = 667 MHz data & strobe / 333 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-6400 = 800 MHz data & strobe / 400 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-8000 = 1000 MHz data & strobe / 500 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-8500 = 1066 MHz data & strobe / 533 MHz clock for address and control
• PC2-9600 = 1200 MHz data & strobe / 600 MHz clock for address and control

DDR3 SDRAM SDRAM DIMMs - DIMMs based on Double Data Rate 3(DDR3) DRAM have data and strobe frequencies at double the rate of the clock. This is achieved by clocking on both the rising and falling edge of the data strobes. The power consumption and voltage of DDR3 is lower than DDR2 of the same speed.

240 pin (single notch)

• PC3-6400 = 800 MHz data & strobe / 400 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3-8500 = 1066 MHz data & strobe / 533 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3-10600 = 1333 MHz data & strobe / 667 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3-12800 = 1600 MHz data & strobe / 800 MHz clock for address and control
• PC3 16000 = 2000 MHz data & strobe / 1000 MHz clock for address and control